Sleep Deprivation and Surly Waiters

God I'm tired. I am ALWAYS tired. And no it's got nothing to do with a poor diet - I am very healthy here, it's just that my body clock has become Spanish. I cannot go to bed before 1.00 am! But I still have to get up in the mornings for university - how the spanish cope with this severe lack of sleep I don't know. Or is it a myth that they stay up all night? Instead of being eyebag ravished zombied commuters, people look quite awake and healthy on the metro in the mornings. Either they have an incredible eye cream or they do actually go to bed at a civilised hour. No, staying up all night must be just a young/erasmus thing. I'll be 22 in 3 weeks, think it might be the age to start maturing and slowing down? hmm...nah, not yet.
I have 6 weeks left in Spain. I am still in utter disbelief. Where have these last 9 months gone? I think time does seem to pass more rapidly when you have settled into a life here and have a routine. January was just 2 weeks ago in my book. But as my birthday nears some people (mainly my mother) tell me that it is a symptom of getting older - time passing more quickly and before you know it your sitting knock-kneed, all gummy smiles and making senile remarks; forgetting which grandchild is which. bliss.
I am torn in my opinions of going home. I can't wait really - I miss the vibrancy of London and the uniqueness of Brighton but at the same time I will desperately miss my friends and life here. Or will I? one wonders if it won't be an 'out of sight, out of mind' situation. I will probably miss the ease of life here -there's no stress really. Next year will be one big Year Abroad hangover. I don't mind - I like libraries and that is probably where I will spend 78 percent of my time from October onwards (the rest will be spent in bed or, having lost the plot, rocking back and forth reminiscing about Spain and tapas to seagulls)
As for the here and now, this week has been a bit stressful and frustrating as exams loom and work has to be handed in. Naturally the best vent for this stress is to blame everything on Spain. I have openly proclaimed how much I dislike Spain on facebook this week (only to take it back) -much like a tiff with one's wife, we kiss and make up eventually. Still, the waitress who gave me an utterly (and unprovoked) filthy look whilst handing me my disgusting greasy food this week tested my patience in a country where 'haute cuisine' rarely figures. My god, I must sound like a self-righteous tosser! I'm just tired and weary. It's been a long and eventful year and I'm telling you living abroad is not always easy-going. As my father says "just stay at home" but thankfully he ignores his own advice and so do I - one must always explore and expand! (both literally and figuratively)
Now, I am off to a Tapas Festival - no doubt there'll be hundreds of people pushing each other for free rioja and nosh. I'll be one of them. Ciao

The End Is Coming...God I Really Don't Want To Go!

I was given the gift of time today. A piece of work that I thought I would be consecrating this weekend to does not actually have to be in until the 16th of June. So phew, I can breathe...
It has been a hectic few weeks and I have felt the strain at times. My mother left yesterday and I am hoping just to have a quiet period and make the most of socializing in Madrid - seeing my friends here before we all go back to where we came from. You know, it's less than 7 weeks now!
As it's nearing the time to go home I have made my peace with Spanish idiosyncrasies, with those annoyances that now I just laugh at or shrug aside as I know it's near the end. I'm sad it's near the end, Madrid is such a lovely city and I can see so clearly the glaring imperfections in aspects of British culture when put up against Spain. Society here is on the whole a lot healthier, people spend time together, families in the parks - here it is important to be with those close to you. There are no problems of public drunkenness and people don't work such long hours and have such huge mortgages. Life here just seems a lot easier than in Britain and I can see why it's appealing.
I will miss living in Madrid because it is such a livable city. It is built around it's people - the bars and restaurants all allude to socializing and enjoying life which makes it so nice. I mean, isn't that what a lot of life is supposed to be about - enjoying it?
I have spent the whole year saying I would never live here, perhaps because I was still getting used to it all and settling into the new surroundings but now I have been here for almost 9 months, it's familiar and I have a life here - a lovely life. It's one I will greatly miss. I will miss the weekly Tuesday tapas nights with Lizzie, Carmen, the Australians and Stephane. I will miss my flamenco classes (cliched I know - when in Spain!) I will miss the lack of stress and freedom to just immerse in the culture and enjoy life. This year has been about enjoying life and I will remember that fabulous youth of mine - before I left the comfort of university and could really take pleasure in the exploration of the new - this is what it's about being 21 - not having to face up to all the harder sides of life just yet and being able to just sit back and ENJOY yourself.
It will be strange going home. I will be nostalgic for Madrid, I may be desperate to turn around and come back but without the wonderful friends I have made here to enjoy it with, it would never be the same. Onwards and upwards is the way - ready for a new chapter with a whole new flavour.

Spring in Madrid

Hello all! It is woeful how long it has been since I last wrote a post but in my defense it has been a very busy and eventful 6 weeks. I was in England for two weeks over easter, just relaxing not doing much in the way of interesting things which was just what I needed! Since I got back to Madrid however it's been all go. First of all my friends Hannah and Dan visited and then straight after I had my father and step mum to visit. We had beautiful warm weather the week they were here and so we took a couple of trips out of Madrid. One into the Guadarrama mountains to El Escorial Monastery - arguably one of Spain's most magnificent buildings and with breathtaking vistas across the surrounding valleys and the skyscrapers of Madrid in the distance. We also went to Toledo, Spain's old capital and a stunning town for a day out. It was lovely having them but when they left I was very tired so I said to myself I would have a quiet week. How silly I am, it was busier than the previous two! but fun busy, catching up with friends, playing darts, drinking beer and ooh, I booked a trip to Morocco! going at the end of May to Marrakesh to spend 3 days lost in the Medina.
We went to The Valley of the Fallen when my family were visiting. It is Franco's monument to the Civil War victims and in typical fascist style it was grandiose, over-bearing and rather nauseating. The interior was impressive (a huge chapel carved into a rock face in a mountain just outside Madrid) but it was also very creepy - something austere and wrong about the place. It had an element of the Da Vinci code to it with its dark shadows, large arches and religious symbolism. An interesting piece of Spanish history, particularly as it is so recent. I don't think the communist /republican fighters would have wanted to buried there though...
Apart from that, I am back at university and quite enjoying my courses. This term is more laid-back and now the weather's warming up there's a lot more outdoor socializing going on. I leave Spain in 12 weeks and I find myself wondering where on earth the last 32 weeks have gone! What did I do for 32 weekends? (I suppose a few of them were holidays and going away to different parts of Spain) but it does make me wonder...I was quite nervous about this year and it seemed like it would be an eternity but as with all other good things, it has passed by in the blink of an eye and I will fairly soon to be thinking about going home, a summer of seeing friends and then the dreaded final year. (I think the final year will be fine. I have decided optimism is always definitely the way forward)
I will leave it there for now but I promise I'll write more soon. I won't leave it so long next time.

M

Sunday Morning Cakes

It's Sunday. I am sitting in bed, the sun is shining as it very often does and caressing my face with its warmth. I am eating madalenas for breakfast- little Spanish sponge cakes with sugar and a hint of lemon. These are the moments I cherish. It's March 2nd and it's already 20 degrees outside, spring is definitely here and with it comes optimism and playfulness - suddenly the parks are full (I plan a trip this afternoon) and the performers are out in force belting out tunes or skits with renewed gusto.
I've met people doing their year abroad who tell me they've hated it here. I honestly don't know why. It makes me think it really is your attitude that makes a place because I can't see many reasons to not enjoy this city which has 'FUN' at the centre of its manifesto! I was on my way home last night on the metro - at 2.00 am it was packed, actually rush hour style packed. A little like England, it was full of merry and very drunk revelers but the atmosphere was of fun and care-free, another Saturday night in a city that knows how to relax and enjoy itself.
I've decided I am not going to become one of those cocky Londoners who says "well, Madrid's got nothing on London mate" no no, I love Madrid for what it is. I ignore the remarks of a girl when I went to Barcelona saying 'it's obvious which city is better, Barcelona' and choose to listen to the other Barcelonian who said "Madrid is much friendlier" - too right.
So, Madrid news. I am choosing my courses for second semester and it seems normal life has been put on hold while this fiasco continues - it involves going to as many courses as possible to try them out and see if you want to do them. Well, I'm sure the task would be made easier but no less stressful if I actually went to some of the classes. Truth be told, I am finding it hard to muster the enthusiasm for trying out every class on offer. I am not alone, most of my erasmus companions feel the same. So instead, I'm hoping that of the few courses I'll go to this week, I'll be able to pick some that I REALLY want to do!
Apart from that free time is aplenty. As the courses haven't begun, and the weather is gorgeous, me and my friends are doing a lot of hanging out and it seems, a lot of eating. Now the weather's getting nicer there will be more going on in the city; a calender full of events to look forward right up until I leave Spain. I am going back to England for easter but after then I will be back with visitors. First of all some uni friends will arrive meaning a lot of Madrid sightseeing. Then it's the turn of my father and his girlfriend - that will involve a lot of culture, walking tours and achy legs but also, a trip out of the city into unexplored territory...I hear it may also involve a night's stay in a castle...
Right, I'll leave it there for now. Hasta muy pronto

The Beauty of Madrid?

I have just been for a walk - I went to Lavapies to buy some Indian curry paste and other ingredients that are hard to find elsewhere. It's a nice nighbourhood, old houses and hilly cobbled streets. I then walked around some other neighbourhoods near my house to get to know some areas I had never been before. The walk was perfectly pleasant except that everything was so shockingly ugly. So much of Madrid is really quite ugly.
I feel bad saying it but it's stating the obvious. Once you leave the very pleasant city centre you are greeted with brown tower blocks, washing and pylons which extend to the horizon.
Ok, ok, I'll be nice. The centre of Madrid is charming - the Paseo de Prado has some magnificent buildings, the Retiro is heaven on a spring's day and Gran Via is very exciting. I love Madrid, for its beauty is in its culture, its people and its vibe. It's a very liveable city, if you ignore the architecture. One has to remember that it is a scarred city, heavily bombed during the Civil War. It is also a city that was reluctant to be the capital - it has no iconic landmarks and doesn't have the feel of a capital in many parts.
Anyway, what else can I ramble on about today? I went to England last week. I stayed in Brighton and had a very pleasant time. Things I like about Britain: nice houses (especially in Hove where I was staying) food from all over the food is easily accessible, a more integrated racial mix, an atmosphere on the whole of tolerance. Things I don't like: the monotonous high streets which have been taken over by large chain coffee shops and clothes stores and have starved all the independant businesses into near extinction. The poverty, which is surpirsingly high in such a wealthy country. Apart from that I really like it there, it's home. Oh, I forgot, the weather - that sucks quite a lot of the time.
I'm not sure the point to this post is absolutely clear. I am trying to get across basically that there are things that are nice and not-nice about both Spain and Britain but if you're positive and focus on the good things then it's possible to really like both places and be very content. I have realised this week how content I am to be in Madrid, despite its faults. It's a nice city, even though it's ugly. I am excited about the next few months because the weather is warming and there's the prospect of outdoor fun getting ever closer! I'll leave it there for now, I have homework to do :(

Who the hell do YOU think you are?

I've got to thinking, mainly because being abroad all the time demands it. I think it's impossible to escape the thinking and reflection that comes with being in a foreign environment. It's true to say that I have been in Spain for 5 months now and therefore it is not so 'foreign' anymore. And I feel it too. I feel a lot more settled here and content.
Being a 'foreigner' though...hmmm, not sure how I feel about that. In some ways it's exhillirating to be the 'guirri' (local term for a person like me). I feel perhaps slightly narcissistically special. I am from a different place than these people around me, I am exotic and do things differently...I can't really say that though because I live in Madrid and it's full of outsiders!
No, being foreign is incredibly personal (as everything about this year seems to be). Think for a moment for those who have not lived abroad before how it might be to do things and say things your whole life, to have a specific way of living that has never been brought into question before because they have been perceived as normal and then suddenly, in a new and strange environment, for all those things to be challenged or questioned. Suddenly the way you cook that particular dish or the way you engage with others may seem so strange to foreign people. It's a bizarre feeling! And one that makes you feel slightly uneasy because it makes you question who you are and how you live your life. Now, maybe I am too introspective but I have occasionally felt more defensive here and more vulnerable - more open to critisicm than I do in Britain simply because I am in a country in which I don't feel confident. It makes you realise how much a product of your culture you really are - in a way it's nice because going home and mixing with your people again is such a pleasure - it's just naturally so easy - you can relax. But it also makes you take the time to try and understand better the host culture you're in - like a game or a puzzle, you need to figure out what certain sayings really mean - whether the irony here is the same as at home, whether it's appropriate or acceptible to say or do this - life here is one big mad cluedo!
On the other hand, you realise that despite the language barrier and the different histories and conquests and events that have shaped each country, we are all human and we all have shared values. Spain is nothing like Britain. It's language is a product of that, yet despite all our differences we all share in common love, family, friendship and respect. We also share the flip-side; the social problems, the people left behind, the cycle of poverty and violence. It all exists in our world of different languages and cultures. It makes you realise that language really is just a series of grunts and noises. There is no need for us to be afraid of each other - we are all one. It's taken me 5 months to only begin to understand what that really means. And it makes this all completely worth it.

I am sorry for the lack of blogging over the last couple of weeks. I have been entertaining a young french lady who goes by the name Anne Sophie. We lived together in Brighton last year while she was on her year abroad and since then have kept in touch with each others' lives. It was delightful to have her around. She has a fun energy and is always cracking jokes. We were also able to choose from three different languages when we spoke to each other. We mostly spoke English but it was often littered with French abuse and Spanish phrases. Oh the joy...

With her I also rediscovered (a bit) the beauty of Madrid. It's got a lot going for it this city, Especially when you are able to sit in a park with a T shirt on a late January day listening to the old sax man playing a tune.

It's very easy when you live somewhere to get too dogged down in the daily routine and miss out on things. I realised this a while ago. There are few cities in the world that offer as much to a person as London yet I found myself when I lived there going to and fro from school to home. Only occasionally would I venture the two miles into the West End to see an exhibition, or go to that new club opening, or try that Arabic place on the Edgware Rd that everyone raved about...

But I will always have London. Madrid I will leave in June. So I decided yesterday to abandon my revision before it had even begun and sit in the park. I read a book about Spain. I then wondered around the labyrinth of tightly packed old streets in the Centro where I discovered a whole array of things I never knew existed. I came across new restaurants, shops and a great independant bookshop. I also came across new roadworks (Madrid is undergoing a rather huge facelift - good in the long run i'm sure but a lot of noise) and revelled in the excitement of the new.

Today however I was more disciplined and did some work. But just to know that it's all out there and that there's still so much to explore is exciting enough. It made me want to explore more and more and be on a constant holiday! But I also remembered that there's plenty of time for that too...inshaallah.

so anyway, here's my top 10 of Madrid. For anyone who's ever visited this great city. Put down what your top 10 is.

1: El Retiro (and other Madrid parks) - it has a civilised and ornamental beauty as well as great african drumming on a Sunday

2: The Art Galleries - Madrid is world renowned for its art galleries and they are amazing. I must admit though I still haven't been to the Prado - the grand institution housing the world's best art is just a bit too daunting for me. I will though...

3: Puerta del Sol - it's the beating heart of Madrid and it's so old and charming. I particularly like the Mariachi bands.

4: Gran Via - It's Madrid's answer to Regent Street or Fifth Avenue, fall of big buildings and fast traffic. I especially love its fast flowing energy at night.

5: Palacio Real - It's just beautiful and ever so grand.

6: El Tigre - It's one of the few remaining bars where you can get free tapas when you order a drink. With the stuffed animals and hanging pigs' legs everywhere, you couldn't get more Spanish if you tried.

7: Chueca - it may be the gay area but it's not exclusive, it's a liberating, anything goes atmosphere. It also has the best and most sophisticated restaurants in Madrid - my particular favourite is the tagine at Wagaboo!

8: Plaza Mayor - the main plaza of Madrid is old and full of character thanks to its uniform architecture and perfect cobbled ground. I especially enjoyed the very tacky christmas market there.

9: Opera - the square outside the Madrid opera house was my first view of Madrid as I ascended up from the metro onto the hot, sticky street. It is beautiful and full of life!

10: Lavapies - it's cosmopolitan Madrid at it's best. Expect to hear Arabic, Urdu or any African language on its old winding streets.

So there you have it. I have plugged Madrid to the world! It's a great city. Some days I hate it and no I am not bi-polar, it just comes with the moods.

Right that's it for now. I want to sleep. Will be back soon and who knows what will have happened by then...